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A Guide on How to Cut Different Fabrics Perfectly

Before you become an accomplished sewer, you must learn how to cut fabric correctly. It might seem easy, but it requires deft handling of both the fabric and the cutting tool. One wrong move can ruin your fabric.

Your seams could become mismatched, your patterns could be difficult to piece together, and the edges of your fabric could fray if you use incorrect cutting techniques. Learning to cut fabric is not difficult, but the process should not be taken for granted.

The quality of your final product depends largely on how you begin cutting your fabric. Whether you are sewing a garment or quilting, it all starts with cutting. We will provide you with an easy-to-follow, step-by-step guide on how to cut fabric properly. So, let’s get started!

Washing

The first thing to do before cutting your fabric is to wash it thoroughly. Please do not skip this step. Washing does more than simply cleanse the fabric; some fabrics tend to shrink after washing. You don’t want your dress to feel tight after you have sewn it, so soak your fabric for a few hours and then let it dry in the sun.

You can also follow the fabric manufacturer’s washing recommendations.

Ironing

After washing, the next step is to iron the fabric. This is also an important step before you begin cutting. Ironing removes wrinkles and smooths the fabric. A flat surface is ideal for cutting.

You will get more precise measurements, and the chances of error will decrease. While ironing, do not stretch or pull the fabric too much, as this could distort its natural shape and texture.

Cutting Tools

Before you start cutting, make sure you have the right tools. Different types of scissors and cutting tools are available for different fabrics and cutting techniques. These include fabric scissors, pinking shears, thread snips, seam rippers, all-purpose scissors, and rotary cutters.

Choose the tool that is best suited to your fabric. Just as it is important to choose the right cutting tool, it is equally important to ensure that the blades are sharp and in good working condition. Dull scissors can damage the fabric. You want to cut the fabric neatly, creating crisp, straight lines, and for that, you need a sharp cutting tool.

The seams will align properly, and the hemlines will look neat if the fabric is cut correctly. Also, do not cut other materials or paper with your fabric scissors.

If the blades need sharpening, take them to a professional sharpener. Using dull scissors requires extra pressure, which can cause your hands to become sore and fatigued unnecessarily.

Know Your Fabric

It is always a good idea to understand something better before you start working with it. Before learning how to cut fabric, let’s first understand what fabric is. Fabric is made up of threads interwoven to form a particular pattern or structure.

The threads running along the length of the fabric are called warp threads, while those running across its width are called weft threads.

In sewing, fabric is often cut lengthwise, along the warp threads. In woven fabrics, these threads are generally stronger and less stretchy than the weft threads.

Sometimes, fabric is also cut widthwise, along the weft threads. This may be necessary to achieve a particular design or pattern or to make efficient use of the fabric.

Fabric Grain

Fabric consists of fibers or yarns woven or otherwise arranged together to form a material. The direction in which these fibers or yarns run is called the grain. In woven fabrics, the grain generally runs parallel or perpendicular to the selvage edges.

Understanding the grain is important for cutting straight lines and ensuring that pattern pieces are aligned correctly. You must examine the fabric to determine its grain. Sometimes, the grain may not be easy to identify because of the fabric's print, so look closely and mark a line along the grain if necessary.

Some materials, such as fleece and leather, do not have a woven grain in the same way as woven fabrics. However, they may have a directional texture or nap that should be considered when cutting.

When cutting fabric, align your pattern with the grainline indicated on the pattern. You can do this by measuring the distance between the grainline and the selvage at both ends and ensuring that the distances are equal.

Cutting the Edges

Many people prefer to trim the edges of the fabric before cutting out the pattern pieces. This step is not always necessary because the edges may be trimmed during the cutting process. However, if you prefer to trim them first, you can do so.

These finished edges are called selvages. They are usually straight, although they may sometimes be uneven or wavy.

You can straighten the fabric by folding it neatly into a square or rectangular shape, ensuring that the edges align as closely as possible. You can then trim the selvage using fabric scissors or shears. The selvage may have perforations or fuzzy threads along its edge.

Once you have trimmed the edges, check that the fabric lies flat and that the cut edges are straight.

Squaring the Fabric

Before cutting, you should ensure that the fabric is properly aligned and that its edges are square. You can do this by gently pulling the fabric diagonally from the top-left corner toward the bottom-right corner. Then, repeat the process from the top-right corner toward the bottom-left corner.

If the fabric is very large, you can ask someone to help you. This step is particularly important for fabrics containing a combination of fibers, such as cotton and elastane.

Cutting the Fabric

Now we come to the actual process of cutting the fabric into your desired shapes and designs. Follow these steps to achieve the best results.

Spread out the fabric. Place the fabric evenly on a large table or another hard, flat surface. Spread out as much of it as possible to smooth out the creases and make accurate measurements. Keep any unused fabric neatly folded on the table.
Keep the fabric supported. Do not let the fabric hang loosely over the edge of the table. This can make it difficult to take accurate measurements and cut smoothly.
Position the pattern. If you are using a pattern, place it on the fabric and pin it in position. If the pattern is made of paper, make sure it is smooth and free of creases. You can iron it lightly, if appropriate, to remove wrinkles.
Secure the pattern. Use as many pins as necessary to hold the pattern in place. The pins will prevent it from shifting. Alternatively, you can use pattern weights to keep it steady.
Mark the outline. Using tailor’s chalk, draw a line along the edges of the pattern. Once you have marked the outline, use a pair of sharp fabric scissors to cut along it. Work carefully and keep your hand steady. You can also make a rough cut around the pattern pieces first, leaving some extra fabric, and then trim them accurately.
Pay attention to notches. Do not ignore the notches marked on your pattern. It is advisable to cut them outward, away from the seam allowance, to reduce the risk of accidentally cutting into it.

That is how you cut pattern pieces from fabric. Now, let’s look at how to cut some specialized fabrics.

Plain Fabric

Let’s begin with fabric that looks the same on the front and back. It can be difficult to cut because you may not know which side to use. If the fabric has a shinier side, that side is often used as the right side, depending on the material and the desired finish.

Once you identify the correct side, mark it with tailor’s chalk or another suitable marking method for future reference.

Cutting Leather

When cutting leather or faux leather, choosing the right cutting tool is very important. Use a sharp tool, preferably a rotary cutter. You can also use scissors if you are confident that they are sharp enough.

Do not use pins to hold the pattern in place on leather, as they can leave permanent holes or marks that may damage its appearance. Instead, use pattern weights or clips where appropriate.

Cutting Chiffon

When cutting chiffon or other slippery fabrics, it is important to keep the material stable. You can place tissue paper beneath the fabric to help prevent it from slipping. You may also use suitable fabric weights to hold it in place.

Delicate Fabrics

For delicate fabrics such as silk, tissue fabric, and other fragile materials, use sharp scissors designed for fine fabrics. You can also place a thin sheet of tissue paper beneath the fabric for support. This can help prevent the material from slipping or snagging while you cut it.

Printed Fabrics

When cutting printed fabrics, it is important to consider the placement and direction of the print. Match the print at the seams wherever possible to achieve a neat, continuous appearance.

Striped Fabrics

When cutting striped fabric, pay attention to the direction of the stripes and the alignment of the pattern pieces. This is especially important when cutting fabric for the bodice and sleeves.

Balance is also important. Ensure that the stripes align properly and that the pattern looks balanced on both sides of the garment.

Checked Fabrics

As with striped fabrics, balance and alignment are important when cutting checked fabrics. If the checks do not match at the seams, the finished garment may look untidy and lose its overall appeal.

Precautions When Cutting Fabric

Keep the following points in mind when cutting fabric to achieve the best possible results.

Washing and Ironing

We have discussed washing and ironing in detail at the beginning of this article, but their importance deserves to be emphasized once again. Do not skip these steps when they are appropriate for your fabric.

During manufacturing, some fabrics may retain tension or undergo processes that affect their dimensions. Washing can cause certain fabrics to shrink or relax, while heat and steam from ironing can help remove wrinkles and smooth the material. These steps can help prevent problems with the fit of the finished garment.

Always check the manufacturer's care instructions before washing or ironing, as some fabrics require special treatment.

Truing and Squaring

In simple terms, truing and squaring involve ensuring that the fabric's edges and corners are properly aligned and that the fabric lies flat. There are several techniques for achieving this.

These steps help ensure accurate measurements, properly aligned pattern pieces, and a well-finished garment.

Buy Extra Fabric for Stripes, Checks, and Plaids

Always consider buying a little extra fabric when working with stripes, checks, or plaids. If you buy only the exact amount required, you may not have enough material to match the patterns properly at the seams.

The amount of extra fabric you need depends on the fabric's width, the size of the pattern, and the repeat of the print. Use your best judgment when calculating how much fabric to buy.

Double-Check Your Cuts

A good way to check whether your fabric has been cut evenly is to fold it in half and compare the edges. The corresponding edges should align. You can then fold the fabric in the opposite direction and check again. If you notice any discrepancies, trim and adjust the edges as needed.

If you want to cut a perfect square, fold the fabric diagonally so that the adjacent edges align. Check that the edges meet evenly and that the corners are properly aligned.

Final Words

Cutting fabric is not particularly difficult, but you must know the right way to do it. Cutting accurately makes sewing easier and helps you create the garment you want.

If you skip essential preparatory steps, such as prewashing fabric when appropriate, you could end up with a garment that is too small or too tight. Once you have mastered the basics of fabric cutting, you can adapt your techniques to suit different types and materials of fabric.